When buying a used car, the first thing to think about is how not to become a victim of fraud. Some recommendations on this topic have already been published in the article "Beware — Scammers!". Here we will continue this topic.
First of all, pay attention to the documents. The date of manufacture recorded in the technical passport must correspond to the VIN code (how to decode it is described in the article "How to Read a Car's VIN Code"). Usually, the number is stamped on the left front pillar of the body and in the upper left part of the dashboard. It is worth writing it down immediately so that before signing the contract, you can check the car against the traffic police database for theft — many companies that help with the transaction offer such services.
The year of manufacture can also be clarified by the markings on the windows and seat belts (their fastenings). If these parts show a different year than the VIN, it is a reason to be wary: perhaps the windows or belts were replaced after an accident.
Check that the engine and body numbers (under the hood and in the cabin) match the records in the technical passport.
A good sign is the presence of a service book — it shows how often the car was serviced, and the very fact of its existence speaks about the owner's attitude towards the car. It would not hurt to call the service center indicated in the book and inquire about the car's history.
Now let's move on to the technical part.
The ideal option is to check the car at a specialized service center, but initial conclusions can be made on your own.
By the way, we have already given useful tips on self-diagnosis in the article "How to Independently Determine Car Faults".
Exterior Inspection
Inspect the car in good light and always after washing — in the dark of a garage and under a layer of dirt, defects are easy to miss.
Start by assessing the paintwork: look for chips, scratches, as well as differences in shade or texture of the paint. Irregularities and dents are better visible if you look at the body at an acute angle.
Traces of bodywork can be detected with an ordinary magnet: the damaged area is usually puttied and then painted, and in these zones the magnet will not stick. To avoid scratching the coating, wrap the magnet in a cloth or apply it through several layers of paper. Pay special attention to the front fenders, the central part of the doors, and the pillars.
If "waves" or uneven paint color are noticeable on the roof, this often indicates a serious accident and violation of the body geometry — it is better to refuse such a purchase. Similar defects on the doors and fenders indicate a less severe accident.
A serious accident can also be indicated by the condition of the gaps between body parts. They should be uniform and symmetrical along the entire length. Check the joints at the windshield, front fenders, hood, doors, and trunk.
Inspect the car for corrosion. Rust usually appears first on the wheel arch liners, wheel arches, sills, under rubber seals, and at panel joints.
Be sure to look into the standard place for the tow bar. If traces of its installation are visible or this area is heavily treated with anti-corrosion, there is a risk that the engine is heavily worn due to driving with a trailer.
Pay attention to tuning — plastic overlays, spoilers, sills, stickers. Dents and rust spots are often hidden under them.
Check the shock absorbers for leaks, as well as the integrity of the dust covers and rubber bump stops.
Look at the tires: if they are worn unevenly, this may indicate disturbed suspension or body geometry, although sometimes the reason is simpler — the owner has not done wheel alignment for a long time.
Interior
In the cabin, assess the condition of the upholstery and panels, the reliability of their fastening, the presence of all handles, buttons, and switches.
The driver's seat should not wobble, and all its adjustments should work.
Under the floor mats should be dry, without traces or smell of rot.
We discussed the signs of a "flooded" car in detail in the article "How Not to Buy a 'Flooded' Car".
Lift or remove the trunk trim to see the side members — their color, integrity, and traces of repair, as well as the shade of the inner surface of the fenders.
Pay attention to the bolts and hinges of the doors: if the car has been in a serious accident, the doors may have been removed, replaced, or repaired.
In a strong impact, airbags usually deploy. Original airbags are expensive, so sellers often simply hide their absence. This can be revealed by the passenger airbag cover, which is not fastened along the entire length of the seam, or new leather on the dashboard.
Check the steering column switches: turn signals, lights, wipers, washer. Also make sure that the air conditioner, heater, power windows, and other things work.
Engine and Underhood Area
An ideally clean, polished engine is a reason to be wary: this way the owner may try to hide oil or other fluid leaks.
A light layer of dust is normal, but the engine itself and the radiator should be dry, without traces of oil or other technical fluids.
Rubber hoses should not have cracks, they should remain elastic, and the connections should be reliable.
Inspect the mounting points of the fenders, headlights, bumper, and side members. Paint chips, traces of a screwdriver, or other marks may indicate body repair.
Assess the oil: it should not contain foreign inclusions, and the filler neck should not have a pasty coating. Too thick oil is an alarming sign: it is poured to temporarily mask severe engine wear.
Check the level and color of the antifreeze. A cloudy liquid indicates that oil has gotten into it.
Start the engine and let it run at idle (about what sounds indicate faults, read in the article "How to Independently Determine Car Faults").
On a warm running engine, pull out the oil dipstick: noticeable steam should not come from the neck, and especially oil should not splash. The same applies to the filler cap: when unscrewing it on a running engine, the nature of the engine's operation should not change.
Steering, Suspension, Brakes
There should be no noticeable play in the steering. Pedals, steering wheel, and gear shift knob worn to a shine are a sign of high mileage.
There should be no oil leaks or rust on suspension parts, and no cracks on the CV joint boots.
If you rock the car, a working shock absorber will dampen the oscillations in one or two cycles. If you press hard on a corner of the body, the shock absorber should smoothly return it to its original position; a sharp rebound is a sign of a malfunction.
On a flat straight road, release the steering wheel — the car should not pull to the side. It should not pull during acceleration or braking either.
During hard braking, the car should not "dive" — this indicates problems with the brake system. Braking itself should be smooth, without jerks.
When driving on uneven roads, no extraneous sounds should appear.
Conclusion
For complete confidence, it is best to take the car to a specialized service station or invite your trusted mechanic for an inspection, who can objectively assess the condition of the car.
If you find the defects described above, this is a reason to bargain.
About how to properly draw up a purchase and sale agreement and register the car with the traffic police, read the article "How to Register a Car".
Happy shopping!
